How to Prepare for Christmas Lights Season Before Everyone Else

The decorators who look effortless in December started thinking about it in September. While everyone else is untangling last year's mess in freezing temperatures, they've already tested every string, replaced the dead bulbs, and mapped out exactly where everything goes. That's not obsessive — that's just smart.

Here's how to prepare for Christmas lights season the right way, so your installation day is measured in hours, not weekends.

Audit Last Year's Inventory (Before You Buy Anything)

Pull everything out of storage. Every string, every clip, every extension cord. Plug in each string and let it run for thirty minutes — some failures don't show up immediately. Take notes:

• Which strings still work perfectly?
• Which ones have dead sections, flickering bulbs, or frayed wiring?
• How many clips survived? How many cracked or went missing?
• Are your extension cords and outdoor stringers still in good shape — no exposed wire, no cracked insulation, no corroded prong tips?

Be ruthless. A string that "mostly works" is a string that's going to fail at 10 PM on Christmas Eve when you can't do anything about it. Retire it. Order replacements now, while inventory is full and you're not panic-shopping against every other procrastinator in your zip code.

Measure Your House (Yes, Actually Measure It)

The number one reason people end up with too few lights — or too many — is that they eyeball it. Don't eyeball it.

Grab a tape measure and walk your property:

• Roofline: Measure the total linear feet along every eave, peak, and rake you plan to light. For C9 bulbs spaced 12 inches apart, that's your string count.
• Trees: Measure the trunk circumference and the height you want to wrap. A rough formula: trunk circumference × number of wraps × wrap height = total string length needed.
• Bushes: Measure length × width × height for net light sizing.
• Walkways: Measure both sides in linear feet and decide on stake light spacing (3–4 feet is standard).

Write it all down. A simple sketch of your house with measurements is worth more than a dozen trips to the store mid-season.

Plan Your Electrical Layout

Every display that looks great from the street and doesn't trip a breaker started with an electrical plan. Here's what to map out:

• Outlet locations: Where are your exterior outlets? How many circuits do they share?
• Circuit capacity: Most residential circuits are 15 or 20 amps. LED lights draw very little power individually, but when you're running 40+ strings, it adds up. Calculate your total load per circuit.
• Extension cord runs: How far is each display zone from the nearest outlet? Use outdoor-rated stringers for long runs — not indoor extension cords.
• Timer and controller placement: If you're using a chase controller or photo-cell timer, know where it sits in the circuit and make sure it's accessible after installation.

A GFCI outlet that trips in the rain at 2 AM is a problem you solve in October, not December.

Order Replacements and New Additions Early

Here's the reality: popular colors, bulb types, and string lengths sell through by late October. Warm white C9 LED strings? Gone. Specific net light dimensions for your exact bushes? Backordered. That niche controller you've been eyeing? Three left.

Order early. Not "early November" early — September early. The full selection at The Christmas Light Emporium is available now. The same products in December come with "out of stock" next to half the catalog.

Prep Your Installation Hardware

Lights get all the attention. The clips, hangers, and mounting hardware do all the work. Before installation day:

• Count your gutter clips and compare to your roofline measurement. Order extras — they're small, they're cheap, and they break.
• Check adhesive hooks for garland and wreath mounting. Cold weather weakens adhesive, so apply them on a day above 50°F.
• Inspect your ladder. Seriously — inspect it. Loose rungs, bent rails, and wobbly feet are not December discoveries you want to make.
• Stock zip ties for securing cords out of sight. The display is the lights, not the wiring.

Create a Written Installation Plan

Professional installers don't wing it. Neither should you. Write down:

1. Installation order (typically: roofline first, then eaves, then trees, then ground-level, then electrical connections last)
2. Which strings go where (label them if you're organized enough — future you will be grateful)
3. Which outlet feeds which zone
4. A target date for installation and a weather backup date

The people who finish in a single Saturday are the ones who showed up with a plan. Everyone else is still out there the following weekend, troubleshooting in the dark.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I start preparing for Christmas lights season?

September or early October. That gives you time to test existing inventory, order replacements while selection is full, and install on a comfortable fall day instead of freezing your hands off in late November.

How do I test Christmas lights that have been in storage?

Plug each string in and let it run for at least 30 minutes. Some failures — flickering sections, intermittent outages — don't show up immediately. Inspect the wire insulation for cracks or discoloration while they're running. If a string has problems, replace it rather than trying to repair individual bulbs.

What's the best temperature for installing outdoor Christmas lights?

Above 40°F. Cold makes LED wire stiff and difficult to bend around corners without cracking the insulation. It also makes your hands clumsy, which is a safety issue on a ladder. Aim for a dry day in the 50s — you'll work faster and the results will be better.

How do I prevent circuit breakers from tripping when I plug in my display?

Calculate your total wattage per circuit before installation. LED strings draw very little power — typically under 5 watts per string — but you still need to account for everything on that circuit, including interior outlets. Spread your display across multiple circuits if needed. Never use indoor extension cords outdoors.

Should I buy all new lights or reuse old ones?

If your existing strings pass the 30-minute test and the color temperature matches your plan, reuse them. But don't force aging strings into service just to avoid spending money — a single dead section on Christmas Day costs you more in frustration than a replacement string costs in October.

How do I organize my Christmas lights for easier setup next year?

Wrap each string around a dedicated reel or piece of cardboard. Label it with the location (e.g., "front roofline, left section"). Store in a dry space — not an attic that reaches 140°F in summer, which degrades LED components over time. A climate-controlled garage shelf is ideal.